Icherisheher: what to see in Baku's Old City in one afternoon

Icherisheher, the Inner City, is the walled heart of Baku and the place every visit should start. It is small, about 22 hectares, so you can see most of it in an afternoon on foot. Wear flat shoes: the lanes are stone and they climb.

An afternoon route

1. Maiden Tower. Start at the Old City's landmark on its seaward side. The view from the top explains how the city is laid out.
2. Multani and Bukhara caravanserais. Two old trading inns facing each other a few steps up the hill, named after the merchants who once stayed there.
3. Muhammad Mosque and the Siniqqala minaret. One of the oldest standing structures in the city, from the 11th century.
4. Palace of the Shirvanshahs. At the top of the hill. Leave an hour for the courtyards, the mausoleum and the small museum.
5. Baku Illusion Museum. One minute from the palace on Muslim Magomayev Street. Twenty rooms of optical illusions, guided in English, Russian and Azerbaijani, about 60 to 90 minutes. Book a time.
6. The rooftop. The museum's top-floor terrace café looks out over the roofs of the Old City. Time it for sunset.

Practical things

• Getting there: Icherisheher metro station is right outside the western walls.
• Cars: access inside the walls is restricted, so park outside and walk in.
• Tickets: walking the Old City is free; the Maiden Tower, the palace and the museums charge separately.
• With children: the illusion museum is the easiest win, and children under 3 go free.